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Braces · Attaching the soundboard · Fingerboard · Finishing · Gallery of the completed oud
The material for the peg box and the pattern. The wood is 7mm thick, but will be planed down to 5mm after assembly.
The negative pattern is used in order to see the grain of the wood and orient the peg box walls accordingly.
The peg box assembled. The end pieces are described below.
The peg box tapers from the neck end to the tip, so the blocks at either end must be tapered as well. The angle of the edges of the blocks is about 1.5 degrees. I used a little angled fence and some sandpaper to establish the angle. The thickness of the pieces is about 7mm.
The peg box also tapers from top to bottom. That means the sides of the blocks must taper as well. I planed this angle by hand before I sanded to the other angle.
The block at the neck end of the peg box is left long and trimmed flush after gluing when the edges of the box are sanded flat. The thickness of the walls is about 5mm. Hankey's book was a bit unclear about this, so I used my Turkish oud as a reference point.
The top corners are rounded over to allow for string clearance.
The tip of the peg box. Later this end will be covered by a decorative piece, scrollwork, piece of bone, etc. I have not decided which.
The back of the pegbox is covered with a thin (2mm) piece of wood. It is bent to shape like the ribs and glued on. In order to have an easy and successful glue up, I built a dedicated jig for this task. First I bent the bottom so it fit well with just hand pressure. I made sure it fit without any gaps. Next I cut it a bit oversize on the sides and left the ends long. To make the jig I first cut a wide block of softwood to the taper of the peg box. Then I laid the box on the block and traced along each side. I then bandsawed the material between these lines. I added a strip of cork to distribute the clamping pressure. At the neck end, the joint didn't quite close up enough so I cut some quick wedges and pushed them in to close the joint. After the glue cures the bottom will be planed flush to the box.
The box bottom trimmed flush and the peg holes drilled and reamed.
The finished peg box (minus decorative cap at tip). The pegs are a little shorter than what I wanted, but for a first try I am satisfied. Fitting the pegs must be done with great attention and patience. Reaming a bit at a time and sanding the shank very sparingly is the best way to keep the shanks long.
I glued a piece of figured walnut to the tip of the peg box, then I rabbeted all around (about 3mm) for Blackwood strips that will be glued in.

The tip of the pegbox with the inlaid Blackwood banding. The job could have been a bit neater.

This ends the peg box section.