This oud was purchased through Ebay. It arrived with the pegbox broken off. Only the bowl was relatively well-made, and thus utilized for a complete re-building of the entire instrument.
When it arrived, the peg box was broken off. The oud was very cold and I suspect that this contributed to the breakage. The glue joint failed, not the wood, so I don't think it took much force to pop it loose.
The peg box was also very poorly made, and the pegs were made of soft wood. The pegs themselves were terribly rough and ugly.
After seeing the pegbox and examining the soundboard, which was terribly thick--way over 2mm--I decided that I would re-make almost the entire oud. The back itself was well made, a bit thick as well, but very solid with no cracks. After removing the soundboard with a little heat (I wasn't too careful because I wasn't saving it) I was glad for my decision. The braces were very rough and heavy and not shaped or sanded smooth at all.
The braces around the sound hole were even "broken" to length.
I replaced the neck with a stringer of maple down the center and into the neck block of the back.
The new walnut peg box with bone end cap and ebony pegs. The oud is a 5 course instrument.
Gluing the wenge edge binding onto the new soundboard.
The soundhole purfling. Ebony and maple veneer. There is a little mistake, or "special detail" at the top.
The fingerboard backing. This is necessary to build up the thickness for the main fingerboard.
Planing African blackwood for the fingerboard by hand.
|The fingerboard. 1/32". Actually a bit thin for the fingerboard, but this is a child's oud and will not see hard use.|
Gluing on the fingerboard. The face is masked to protect from the hide glue used to attach the fingerboard.